Yellowknife is a beautiful place! Unfortunately, there was a lot of smoke at first from a forest fire in the neighbourhood--it was quite a surprise when getting off the plane! Apparently the fire was about 40km away and sometimes blowing toward Yellowknife. It had abated in 2 days. My first night there, I met Leone and Clem of "Buffalo Nights Bed and Breakfast." Clem actually hunts buffalo, but hasn't for a while since it's too much meat. There was a gigantic taxidermied head of one of the "little" ones he got. The view from their house overlooks Great Slave Lake from a high rocky hill. So gorgeous! I stayed at Fred Henne Territorial Park for 5 days, on a rocky hill. I read 4 novels sitting down at the beach of Long Lake, which is, of course, long and also shallow and chilly. I took a picture of my first coffee made. I still didn't have fuel, so I got boiling water from the gatehouse. I placed it so you could see the veins of pink ...